Kashmir is contested in the imagination for an average city dweller. On one side is the whole paradise on earth while on the other is the violence we hear through news reports, as we stay outside the real Kashmir. This June, I planned my trip with a good load of guilt. It seemed wrong to be planning a holiday to a place so rife with violence. But, perhaps that is the nature of a true tourist, they know how to get their money’s worth anywhere, the fly-by-night seeker.